Information

HOW THE PAINTING IS DONE

PREPARATION is done using a plastic media blast, followed by an aluminum oxide dusting to ensure a superior surface for paint adhesion. After blasting, all parts are coated with an Epoxy or Acid Etching Primer to assure maximum bonding of paint to metal, followed by a leveling primer and finished with a primer sealer. Each coat is wet-sanded to guarantee a premium finish.

BASE COAT is where the customizing of the paint starts. These special effects and coatings give your paint a unique effect. The base coats are sealed with an inner clear, and wet-sanded to increase the effects of depth.

MID-COAT techniques, such as airbrushing, murals, striping, and graphics are also used. Additional colors, transparencies and other coatings are then sealed with inner clears. Each layer is sanded to achieve a wet look that will set your paint apart from all others.

CLEAR COATS are applied over all artwork, graphics and striping, sealing everything in. Clear coats are the protection against UV, gasoline, pollution, solvents, and a protective barrier against scuffs and scratches. The clear coat is finished with a five step wet-sanding process, in preparation for polishing.

POLISHING completes the job with a three-step buffing process, giving an unbelievable mirror finish that is unsurpassed in custom painting.

Satisfaction Guaranteed!
CUSTOM PAINT DOES NOT JUST HAPPEN - IT'S CREATED WITH EXTRA CARE IN EVERY STEP
FROM METAL PREP TO FINAL POLISH

Washing Your Paint Job: The goal is to get the surface clean with minimum damage to your paint. Tools: The tools used range from sponges, wash mitts, hand towels, brushes, Micro fiber towels, T-shirts, Chamois and rags for drying. I prefer a Wash Mitt for washing the paint and quality Micro fiber or 100% White Cotton Towels

Car Wash Soap: Never wash your car with just water!! You need a lubricant to help move the dirt off the surface of the paint. Plain water will not do that and you end up using unnecessary pressure to move the dirt. Always use a Car Wash Soap, the chemical balance is set to not be harsh on your paint. They cost only a few dollars and will deliver quality performance and peace of mind. Never use a kitchen or household liquid detergent to wash your paint as these products can do damage to your paint finish. Liquid dish washing detergent is too harsh to use consistently. Sponges, T-shirts, Colored towels, diapers, etc have a tendency to scratch. T-shirts and Diapers have no nap to capture dirt, so they will drag it across the surface. Colored Terry Cloth towels and foreign made towels have a tendency to mix cotton and Polyester which will scratch the paint. The dye used to color towels has a tendency to harden the material which will cause scratches.

Before the Wash: Check "Pre-wash" Areas: Look closely at the paint for signs of road tar . Also look for dried bugs . You can find special solvents made especially for removing road tar at the same place you purchase your car wash soap. Dried bugs can be easily removed with a mixture of baking soda and water (be sure the baking soda is completely dissolved to ensure that it will not be abrasive). Remember, it's easiest to see and treat these "pre-wash" areas when the car is dry -- and since of these cleaning techniques remove surface wax, don't forget to re-wax the areas after the wash.

Washing Methods: The single bucket method combines the wash and rinse water in a single bucket. It's not bad and is the generally practiced method. The two bucket method has the wash/soapy water in one bucket and rinse water in a second. Rinsing your wash mitt in a second bucket keeps your wash water much cleaner and decreases your chances of dragging dirt across the finish. Never wash you paint in direct sunlight if you can help it. When the surface is hot, the soapy water will dry to quick, and the rinse water will leave behind water spots (mineral deposits left behind when water dries in large drops). Always "water" your paint down before washing. Run water over the entire surface before starting the wash cycle. It helps soften the dirt and makes removal a touch easier. Do not use a jet like, blasting spray, it has a tendency to push the dirt into the paint surface and drag it along the surface before it gets blasted off. Use a gentle spray for the initial soaking. Now with the Car Wash Soap blended with cool water, use a large sponge or washing mitt to apply the mixture. Remember to rinse the sponge/mitt regularly to rid it of dirt the can accumulate and scratch the paint -- and also rub the sponge gently as you work the suds over the body surface.

Rinsing: The best trick for reducing the amount of water left on the paint surface is to let a slow film of clean water run over the surface. This has a tendency to let the water slide off the surface and reduces the amount of water left on the surface to dry. Harsh blasting or jet like rinsing leaves large beads/puddles.

Drying: As stated always use 100% White Cotton towels or quality Micro fiber Towels.

Carnauba wax is the preferred car wax of collectors and concourse enthusiasts because it creates a rich, warm glow. It doesn't appear to sit on the paint. It transforms the paint into a deep, liquid pool that shimmers under changing light conditions. The more carnauba wax, the more shine.
     The wax is produced by the Brazilian Tree of Life, a palm tree, in order to coat its leaves. The wax provides protection from the sweltering sun and it sheds water so it falls onto the ground and is absorbed by the tree's roots. For this reason, carnauba wax is breathable. Good for the tree and good for your paint.
     Carnauba is rock hard in its natural form. Wax makers have to blend the wax with oils, petroleum distillates, or a solvent in order to make the wax workable. The very best carnauba-based wax is only about 1/3 natural carnauba. It's probably for the best since the price gets higher and higher as the concentration of carnauba rises. When a product advertises "pure carnauba wax" or "100% carnauba wax", they are referring to the purity of the carnauba that is in the product, not the product as a whole.
     That brings us to grading. Carnauba is harvested and then graded according to color, purity, and where it was grown. Trees grown in the northern area of Brazil produce the highest grade carnauba. The yellow wax is the most pure and therefore receives the highest grade. This is the grade most commonly used in high end car waxes. Some manufacturers refine the yellow wax again into an ultra-pure white wax to ensure that the wax produces the clearest, most reflective gloss once applied to the paint.
     The carnauba wax repels water and, consequently, most contaminants. When applied to any surface, carnauba retains these characteristics. Therefore, an application of a carnauba-based wax to your paint will protect it from UV rays, heat, moisture, oxidation, and environmental contamination.
     A carnauba wax finish will wear off in approximately 6 to 8 weeks.

	Here's my rides:
	One for Miles One for Smiles

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